Where did that come from?
You're looking in the mirror and there it is — a patch of darker skin on your cheek, a cluster of sun spots that definitely weren't that prominent last year, a new shadow across your upper lip. And you're wondering: when exactly did this happen, and is there anything that can actually shift it?
Hormonal pigmentation is one of the most common — and least talked about — skin changes during perimenopause and menopause. Let's get into it.
Why hormones cause pigmentation
Your skin contains cells called melanocytes, which produce the pigment melanin. Melanin is what gives your skin its colour and also responds to UV exposure by darkening (that's a tan — your skin's attempt at self-protection).
Here's the interesting bit: oestrogen and progesterone directly regulate melanocyte activity. When hormone levels fluctuate — particularly the dramatic swings of perimenopause — melanocytes can become overactive and unpredictable. They start producing uneven clusters of pigment that show up as dark spots, patches, or melasma.
On top of this, cell turnover slows significantly during the shift (from roughly 28 days to closer to 60 days). This means those pigmented cells linger on the surface of your skin far longer than they used to, making spots look more prominent and darker than they might otherwise be.
Sun exposure makes it dramatically worse
Here's the hard truth: any existing pigmentation will be made worse by UV exposure. Even brief, unprotected time in the sun can darken spots significantly — and with slower cell turnover, it takes much longer for that extra darkness to fade. If you're not wearing SPF daily, you're essentially undoing any brightening work you do in the rest of your routine.
This isn't about vanity. UV exposure during the shift accelerates collagen breakdown, barrier damage, and pigmentation simultaneously. Daily SPF is your single most impactful skincare decision.
What actually fades pigmentation?
The ingredients with the strongest evidence for fading existing pigmentation are:
- Glycolic acid (AHA): Gently dissolves the bonds between dead skin cells, speeding up turnover and bringing pigmented cells to the surface to shed more quickly. Also helps your other actives penetrate more effectively. Our Go-Between 5% Glycolic Toner uses a carefully balanced concentration that exfoliates without stripping.
- Vitamin C: Inhibits melanin production and brightens existing pigmentation. Works best alongside SPF.
- Retinol/Bio-retinol: Accelerates cell turnover to shed pigmented cells faster. Our Bio-Retinol is the gentler option for reactive skin.
- Exfoliating scrubs: Physical exfoliation removes dead, pigmented cells from the surface — best used once or twice a week. Our Weekly Polish uses Icelandic volcanic sand for controlled, gentle resurfacing.
Patience is part of the protocol
Fading hyperpigmentation takes time — typically 8 to 12 weeks of consistent use before you see significant change. The mechanism is cell turnover, and that's not something you can rush. The key is consistency: using your actives regularly, protecting with SPF every single morning, and giving your skin time to do what it does.
The good news is that hormonal pigmentation absolutely can be improved. It's not permanent. Your skin is still cycling, still renewing — just a little more slowly. Give it the right support and it will respond.